There are several different pepper varieties grown in each country. However, resistance to disease is a country specific and in extreme cases a variety may have excellent resistance to disease in one country.

• Kamchay: There is not specific information about source of this variety. Kamchay has small leave, short node, and big seed
• Lampong/Belangtoeng: this variety originated from Indonesia. It has big leave, long node and pods, and small seed

You must only obtain planting material from sources that can guarantee that their material is clean and free of infection. Pepper disease can be spread through breeding.

If you cannot obtain cleaned planting material, you should only plant material sourced from virus-free vines.

• Taking cuttings: Shoots for rooting should be taken from pest and disease-free vines from disease-free gardens
• Type of shoots: Base runner shoots or orthotropic, single-node cuttings with one leaf from orthotropic shoots may be used for initial rooting.
• Rooting: Cuttings should be rooted in nursery beds or propagated by other appropriate methods before transfer to the field.
• Rooting mixture: Soil, sand, and organic matter should be mixed to form the rooting mixture. Adopt suitable procedures to ensure that the rooting mixture is free of pathogens, at least by soil solarisation.
• Nursery sheds: Rooting should be done in nursery sheds to protect against sun and rain and provide adequate humidity.
• Nursery hygiene and maintenance: Nurseries should be disease and pest-free. Constant monitoring and inspection should be carried out including inspection of root systems. Disease-infected or pest-infested cuttings should be removed and destroyed. After removing the affected cuttings and pests, appropriate treatment should be applied to prevent further spread. Nurseries and surrounding areas should be weed-free. Regular watering is required to ensure that adequate soil moisture is maintained in nursery mixtures.
• Transfer to the field: Rooted single-node orthotropic shoot should have 5-7 nodes at time of field planting. Hardening plant should be done by gradual exposure to sunlight.

Try to select terminal (orthotropic) shoots for planting after rooting in nurseries. Cuttings from terminal shoots bear fruits earlier and are likely to be more vigorous.

• The soil depth should be at least 0.75 m. Soil depth may be 1.0 m or more.
• Soils should be analysed to determine pH, nutritional status and physical properties and soil amelioration should be based on such analysis. Recommended soil characteristics are sandy loam clay, to clay loam or lateritic with adequate essential plant nutrients and suitable pH (5.0 – 6.5)
• Tillage should be kept to a minimum, to prevent disturbance of the root system and soil erosion. The area at the base of the plant should be kept free of weeds or cover crops. There should be minimum tillage of interspaces to reduce disturbance of the root system. Cover crops should be planted in the interspaces, leaving an area at the base of the plant that is as wide as the canopy, generally about 60 cm radius, kept clean by hand weeding.
• Slope areas should be terraced and contour bunds constructed to minimise soil erosion. Individual terracing can be done for each vine, ensuring that the terraces slope inwards.
• Soil acidity should be checked from time to time and liming done when required. If pH is lower than 5, then liming is required, to the level where pH reaches a suitable level.
• Addition of soil nutrients should be based on soil analysis and requirement. Wherever possible, organic matter in the form of farm manure, compost or leaf litter should form a major component of nutritional inputs.
• Soils for pepper should be sandy loam to clay loam or lateritic, porous with good water holding capacity and should not be water logged. Where necessary soil amelioration in the form of minimum tillage and application of organic matter should be undertaken to change the structure and texture of the soil and improve soil moisture status.

• Temperature conditions: Pepper should not be grown in areas where temperatures can fall below 10 0C or rise above 40 0C. Generally, temperatures should be within the range of 25 0C to 35 0C, with low variation within a day.
• Air humidity conditions: Pepper should be grown in areas where humidity is high. Relative humidity should be over 70%.
• Rainfall conditions: Pepper should be planted in areas that receive at least 1,750mm of rainfall annually. Pepper cultivation is best under rainfall of 2,000-3,000mm. A clear dry season is advantageous for flower induction. Where there is a prolonged dry period, irrigation may be required.

• Land previously planted with cocoa or rubber should be avoided as some of these areas may be infected with Fomes spp. Fusarium spp. or Phythopthora sp.
• Soil converted from other crops such as coffee, cocoa, rubber etc., must first be treated before planting pepper. This you do by ploughing, collecting roots, and then burning.
• You should then plant at least 2-3 crops of legume green manure to help the soil regain nitrogen. At the same time, it is necessary to include fungicide treatment.

• Pepper holdings should be located on suitable land, taking into consideration the previous land use, adjacent land use and accessibility. Land adjacent to the pepper holding should be free from pests and diseases.
• Avoid selecting a plot that is adjacent to land that has been intensively cultivated with high use of agricultural chemicals. Some of these chemicals may spread to your plot through water runoff.

• Where such land must be used, keep the land fallow or plant with suitable annual crops for a reasonable period. Cover crops may be planted and ploughed back to increase organic matter and beneficial microbial activities. Cover crops should be planted in the inter-spaces between pepper vines to reduce soil erosion and to improve the physical, chemical and biological properties of the soil.
• The type of cover crop to be planted is dependent on the terrain and soil conditions. Recommended cover crops include:
  • Arachis pintoi
  • Centrosema pubescens
  • Calapogonium muconoides

• In the rainy season, you must ensure that water can move away from the orchard and does not stagnate at the base of the pepper plant.
• Prepare a drainage ditch (sub-ditch). The trench size should be 30-40cm wide, 25- 30cm deep. From 2-3 rows of pepper, dig a trench, the trenching position must be in the middle of the two rows of pepper, avoiding damage to the pepper roots.
• Prepare a main ditch. This must be perpendicular to the drainage ditches and can be dug at the end of the garden or around the garden. The size of the ditch should be 50 - 60 cm wide and 50-60 cm deep. For pepper gardens with large length and low slope, in order to increase the drainage capacity of the garden, dig a ditch in the middle from 10 rows of pepper to dig a ditch in the middle perpendicular to the auxiliary ditches.

• Live supports should be pruned as often as necessary. It is recommended that pruning of live supports be done before fertiliser application to maximise exposure to sunlight so as to encourage maximum uptake of nutrients.
• You can use certain fruit trees, such as durian or avocado, to provide wind protection and shade. These trees will also contribute to your income.
• Wind barriers should block the main wind direction and should consist of double row planting.
• The distance between the 2 rows should be 2 meters, and the trees about 6 – 8 meters from the pepper plants.
• For pepper orchards using dead pillars (concrete, brick), it will be necessary to plant additional shade trees for pepper orchards. It is recommended that for every 3 rows of dead pillars to plant a row of trees for shade.

• Windbreak: Cassia siamea, durian, avocado
• General shade: durian, avocado
• Additional shade: River tamarind, Adenanthera pavonina

You can replant immediately if the:

• Total number of parasitic nematodes in the soil is less than 100 individuals /100g of soil and if the total number of parasitic nematodes in the roots is less than 150 individuals /5g of roots.
• Total number of the density of Fusarium spp. and Rhizoctonia spp in soil is less than 103 cfu/g or the frequency of occurrence of Fusarium spp. and Rhizoctonia spp in roots is less than 20%. There should be no history of occurrence of Phytophthora spp.

• Total number of parasitic nematodes in the soil is more than 100 individuals / 100g of soil or the total number of parasitic nematodes in the roots is over 150 individuals / 5g of roots.
• Density of Fusarium spp. and Rhizoctonia spp in the soil is 103 cfu/g or more. Or if the frequency of occurrence of Fusarium spp. and Rhizoctonia spp in roots is over 20-30%. The presence of the fungus Phytophthora spp.

• Legumes, maize, yellow flower stalks, chrysanthemums can all be planted to rotate crops to improve soil.
• Plough the soil twice at a depth of 40-45cm. Each time you should plough horizontally and vertically across the plot.
• After drying, spread 1-2 tons of lime powder/ha and harrow to a depth of 20 - 30 cm, horizontally and vertically across the plot. During ploughing, the harrow continues to collect roots.

• Low investment cost.
• Regulating productivity: avoiding the phenomenon of fruiting every other year and long exploitation time.
• Regulating the microclimate: protecting the garden in drought or stormy weather.
• Source of timber.
• Contribution to fixing nitrogen, branches and leaves can be used as green manure, or as fodder for livestock.

• It takes at least 1-2 years for a live pillar to qualify for a climbing pepper plant.
• Expensive pruning in the rainy season, some pests and diseases damage the tree.
• Ceiba pentandra cuttings only develop horizontal roots, no pile roots. Therefore, the ability to withstand storms is poor, especially the piers 6-8 m high, easily broken.

• Live supports used should be at least 2 m long with a minimum of 5 cm diameter girth. Live supports should be planted well before planting pepper at a depth of 30 cm. The distance between the live support and the pepper plant should be adequate to prevent root competition, depending on the type of live support and the type of pepper cutting used, approximately between 10– 60 cm. Recommended live supports are:
  • Gyiricidia spp. (vegetatively propagated)
  • Ailanthus malabarica (seed propagated)
  • Grevillea robusta (seed propagated)
  • Garuga pinnata (seed propagated)
• Trees with economic value such as are canut, coconut or jackfruit may also be used.
• Live supports used should be at least 2 m long with a minimum diameter of 5cm.
• Where possible, mixed species of trees should be used. This limits the risks of pests/disease spreading amongst the trees when peppercorn is at peak production.
• You should apply suitable water and nutrition to the trees to ensure good crop establishment. This should be sone before planting pepper.
• Live supports should be planted well before planting pepper.
• Live support should be planted to a depth of 30 cm.
• The distance between the live support and the pepper plant must be adequate to prevent root competition. The distance will depend on the type of live support and the type of pepper cutting used, approximately between 10-60 cm.
• When selecting a live pillar care should be taken to consider local plant pests and possible infestation of the pillar trees. Suitable plants for live support, based on local conditions include: Cassia siamea, Leucaena leucocephala, Wrightia annamensis, Ceiba pentandra, and Oroxylum indicum.
  • Cassia (Cassia siamea): these tall, large trees have a slightly rough bark suitable for creeping pepper roots. Using such supports, it is possible to plant with seedlings sown from seeds or planted with branches.
  • Acacia (Leucaena leucocephala), the roots have good nitrogen fixation ability, and small foliage supports easier pruning. The plant is suitable for many areas of pepper cultivation. This plant is not suitable for support if the accacia is also planted at the same time as pepper, in this case temporary pillars will be necessary.
  • Long muc (Wrightia annamensis), the bark of this tree is slightly rough which supports attachment of the pepper. This plant can be planted with seedlings sown from seeds or with branches. The plant is slow to grow and difficult to prune.

• Concrete pillars: should have a diameter at the bottom edge of 15 cm, the top edge of the pillar should be 10 cm. Pillar height should be between 3.5- 4.0 m. Recommended planting distance when these pillars are used is: 2 x 2.5 m or 2.5 x 2.5 m, providing a density of between 1,600 and 2,000 pillars/ ha.
• Living pillars: Several different plants can be used as live pillars. Planting distance should be 2.5 x 2.5 m, giving a density of 1,600 pillars/ ha. If the living pillar is a black cycad, planting distance should be 3 x 3 m, giving a density of 1,100 pillars/ ha.
• Combined planting: Planting 1 - 2 rows of living pillars, alternating with 1 - 2 rows of dead pillars, planting distance should be 2.5 x 2.5 m, giving a density of 1,600 pillars/ ha.

• Rooted cuttings should be planted in prepared pits at the onset of the rainy season. Young vines should be tied loosely to the support and shaded with suitable plant material. Mounding should be carried out after planting, to prevent water stagnation and root exposure. In areas with low rainfall, or if there is absence of rain after planting, provide supplementary irrigation for the first 6 to 9 months. Where areas become water-logged after planting, provide adequate drainage.
• If the soil is infected: Before planting, treat the soil in the pit with Ethoprophos, a nematicide and soil-insecticide or Metalaxyl, a fungicide.

• Ground and Soil Water Management: In dry areas, maximise water infiltration and minimise run-off by proper use. In areas where a pronounced dry season may occur, a source of water may be needed. Conservation measures include contour planting, contour bunding or terracing to prevent run-off on slopes over 10°. On level land, drainage channels of sufficient size should be dug where necessary to prevent water logging. Water may be required for production of planting materials, to facilitate establishment of young plants in the field and for spraying plant protection chemicals for control of pests and diseases. Water is also needed for processing pepper, particularly for white pepper production. If a river or a pond is available nearby, it can be a suitable water source; alternatively, a well may be dug to provide adequate water for on-farm activities. Rain water harvesting is also recommended.
• Water Retention Capacity: Soil structure should be improved where possible to enhance the water retention capacity. Addition of organic matter in the form of mulches, composts, and green manure and planting suitable cover crops may be undertaken to improve soil structure, permeability and water retention
• Water Contamination: Ensure that water used on the farm is free from contamination and that production inputs, including waste or recycled products of organic, inorganic and synthetic nature do not contaminate water sources. Care should be taken to ensure that water used for irrigation (where needed) is free from unintentional contamination, particularly from pesticide residues and agro-industrial pollutants in surface water. Where agricultural chemicals and fertilisers are used, every effort must be made to deliver the required amount to the pepper plant without affecting water run-off from the holding. Where weeding is required, hand weeding should be adopted wherever possible, to avoid the use of chemical sprays that may be washed off into nearby water sources. Where white pepper production requires soaking green pepper in water for a few days, care must be taken to ensure that the waste water does not pollute water sources.
• Monitor Crop and Soil Water Status: Adopt techniques to accurately schedule irrigation and adopt moisture conservation and water recycling measures where possible. A primary consideration for determining suitability of land for pepper production should be rainfall and water availability. In drier, marginal areas that have been planted with pepper, efforts to conserve water take on special significance. Clearing large tracts of land for pepper planting may have an undesirable impact on soil water status and care should be taken to preserve wind breaks and suitable shade, particularly in dry areas. Water saving measures, such as drip irrigation and pitcher irrigation may be adopted especially during the establishment phase, where required.
• Pepper plants must be subjected to a dry period of 30 - 45 days for the plant to stop growing and the dormant sprouts to differentiate into flower sprouts.
• After harvesting, you must limit water until the plants are fully differentiated.
• If required, the timing to water pepper is extremely important. It is important that you determine the time to water pepper carefully:
  • If it is too late, it will affect the growth and yield of pepper.
  • If too early, the flowers will bloom unfocused, affecting the yield and the harvest later. It also increases the cost of watering.
• Frequency of watering depends on the growth status of the plant, time of year and climatic conditions. For example:
  • If the pepper gardens show signs of weakness (yellow leaves, wilting, etc) they need to be watered before harvesting; or
  • In the long dry season years, it is necessary to water many times to ensure the growth of the plants.
• To accurately determine the time to water pepper plants, it is recommended to use the soil moisture meter designed by the Western Highlands Agriculture and Forestry Science Institute.
• For the first watering, ensure that the soil moisture content reaches 28-29%. Subsequent watering should be when the soil has reached a moisture content 1-2% higher than the first time.
• Newly planted pepper must be watered evenly in the dry season until it rains.
• For newly planted pepper plants, if in the rainy season there is a prolonged drought, additional irrigation must be provided.
• Mature pepper trees are irrigated in the dry season when the trees are growing fruit and at the beginning of the rainy season when the temperature is high and the humidity is low. After harvesting, watering should be limited to promote differentiation

• Limited weeding by hand may be carried out when necessary, in the inter-spaces before the cover crop is fully established and at the base of the plant. Cover crops should not be allowed to grow excessively. Pruning of the leaves at the base of the plant to 30cm above the ground surface should be practiced.
• Principles of weed management prevents invasion and growth of weeds. Control at the right time, best before the grass flowers. Apply integrated weed management to limit the damage of weeds. Weed management reduce the density of weeds to reduce the yield of pepper plants convert unwanted weeds to desired species. Purpose of weed management control weed invasion and growth, scientific weed management and weed benefits. Help pepper plants grow and develop well, increase productivity, reduce costs. Facilitating the care and harvesting of pepper plants. Protect land resources, develop agriculture in a safe and sustainable manner. Increase labor productivity.
• Weed around the base of the pepper three times: (i) one month after the rainy season; (ii) in the middle of the rainy season; and (iii) one month before the end of the rainy season.

Weeding by machine: You can use a mower or wire to crush the grass. This method is less labour intensive.

Cultivation measures: Planting cover crops and shade trees or live pillars will limit weed growth.

Plow and harrow the soil thoroughly to bury the grass seeds deep into the soil.

• For young vinces: For organic nutrition of pepper, adequate green manure in the form of loppings from pruning of live supports and farm manure should be applied to the young vines in two applications before the rainy season. For young vines, 5- 10 kg of organic manure may be applied in two or more applications, preferably at the onset of the rainy season. Wood ash may be added as a supplement for potassium and rock phosphate for phosphorous. Bio-fertilisers such as Azospirillum sp., Azotobacter sp. and PGPRs (Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria) may also be used for better crop health.For mature vinces: For organic nutrition of pepper, adequate green manure in the form of loppings from live supports, as well as other farm manure should be applied to the mature vines in two applications before the rainy season. For mature vines, 10-15 kg of organic manure may be applied in two or more applications, preferably at the onset of the rainy season. Wood ash may be added as a supplement for potassium and rock phosphate for phosphorous. Bio-fertilisers such as Azospirillum sp., Azotobacter sp. and PGPRs may also be used for better crop health.

• For young vinces: Adequate nutrition must be applied to young vines, based on the soil requirements, to ensure vegetative growth and plant health. Generally, during the first year of growth, 5 kg of organic matter may be applied to the vines. Bio-fertilisers such as Azospirillum sp., Azotobacter sp. and PGPRs may also be used for better crop health. At least a total of 300g/ year of inorganic fertiliser, such as 12:12:17 plus TE (Trace Elements) may be applied in 4 split applications of 30g, 60g, 90g, and 120g at 3-month intervals. This may vary from location to location.
• For immature vines (bearing vines that are not fully grown): Adequate nutrition must be applied to the immature vines, based on the soil requirements, to ensure vegetative growth, plant health and flower initiation. Generally, for immature vines, 5-10 kg of organic matter may be applied to the vines. Bio-fertilisers such as Azospirillum sp., Azotobacter sp. and PGPRs may also be used for better crop health. At least a total of 600g/ year of inorganic fertiliser, such as 12:12:17 plus TE, to be applied in 4 split applications of 150 g each at 3-month intervals. This may vary from location to location.
• For mature vines (vines with stable yields): Adequate nutrition must be applied to the mature vines, based on the soil requirement to ensure plant health and flower initiation. Generally, for mature vines, 10-15 kg of organic matter may be applied to the vines. Bio-fertilisers such as Azospirillum sp., Azotobacter sp. and PGPRs may also be used for better crop health. At least a total of 1-1.5kg/ year of inorganic fertiliser. The inorganic fertiliser, such as 12:12:17 plus TE, should be applied in 4 split applications at 40%, 30%, 20%, and 10% at monthly interval upon the onset of the rainy season. This may vary from location to location.

Organic fertilizer

Types of organic fertilizers

Green manure: includes the stems and leaves of plants such as weed anemones, windbreak tree remnants, legumes.

Sourced from organic materials, processed and fermented according to an industrial process with the participation of one or more strains of beneficial micro-organisms. Micro- organic fertilizers: There are raw materials and industrial processes. There is one or more strains of microorganisms that are still alive and active when applied to the soil. Worm microbiological fertilizer. Composted organic fertilizer from agricultural by products.

Is organic fertilizer or biological fertilizer mixed with inorganic fertilizer. A fertilizer that combines both organic and inorganic fertilizers.

Application method: Dig a trench to a depth of 10-15 cm along the edge of the canopy. Apply the organic manure and fill the trench with soil. In the process of digging trenches, pay attention to limiting damage to the pepper roots. It is best to apply the organic manure to the root cabinet.

There are many types of inorganic fertilizers commonly used for pepper. To make sure that you apply the correct amount of nutrient, it is recommended you use the calculation method to convert from pure fertilizer to commercial product. This will allow you to know which fertiliser to buy so that the nutritional needs for your plot are achieved,

• Single fertilizer: provides 1 type of macro element for plants
• Nitrogen fertilizers: Urea, ammonium sulfate
• Phosphate: Fused phosphate, super phosphate
• Potassium fertilizer: Potassium chloride, Potassium sulfate
• Mixed, complex fertilizers: provide two or more macronutrients for plants
• Fertilizer NPK, NPK+TE
• Foliar fertilizer: contains NPK and many micronutrients to spray through leaves

Before applying fertilizer, rake the leaves and plant residues. You can then spread the fertilizer on the ground along the edge of the canopy, lightly dig, cover with fertilizer to avoid breaking the roots.

After planting (for new planting):

• 1 - 1.5 months fertilize 1/3 of the amount of nitrogen fertilizer + 1/3 amount of potassium, 2-3 months after planting the rest.
• For Year 2 onwards: Fertilize 3-4 times.
  • First application: All amounts of phosphate and manure are applied at the beginning of the rainy season.
  • Second application: 1/3 protein + 1/3 potassium, 3-4 weeks after the first time
  • Third application: 1/3 nitrogen + 1/3 potassium, applied in the middle of the rainy season.
  • Fourth application: The remaining amount of fertilizer applied at the end of the rainy season.

• First application: 1/4 nitrogen + 1/4 potassium and all organic fertilizers, phosphate fertilizers about 10 days before the end of harvest.
• Second application: 1/4 nitrogen + 1/4 potassium, applied at the beginning of the rainy season.
• Third application: 1/4 nitrogen + 1/4 potassium, applied in the middle of the rainy season.
• Fourth application: The remaining amount of fertilizer applied at the end of the rainy season

Spray foliar fertilizer 2-3 times in the rainy season, spraying at the recommended concentration. Thoroughly spray the underside of the leaves and spray in cool weather without strong sunlight or heavy rain.

General practices include:

• Undertake weed control to remove pest host plants, but also consider that some weeds provide food and shelter for natural enemies, ground cover, and mulching material.
• Select only those weeds that have a negative impact on the plant for removal.
• Carefully consider the benefit of other weeds before removal.
• Promote biodiversity in your gardens, this not only disrupts pest and disease movement, but also encourages natural enemies. This can be achieved by selecting non-cropping areas around the garden to plant selected species, or within the gardens between the plants, being careful to select plants that will not directly compete with the peppercorn.
• Diversity can also be achieved by intercrop peppercorn with another crop.
• Pepper varieties that have been found to be resistant or tolerant and are suitable for specific locations should be planted.
• Shade regulation should be done to allow optimal light penetration, with pruning of live support trees done regularly.
• Limited weeding by hand may be carried out, when necessary, in the inter-spaces before the cover crop is fully established and at the base of the plant.
• Cover crops should not be allowed to grow excessively.
• Pruning of the leaves at the base of the plant to 30cm above the ground surface should be practiced.
• Provision and maintenance of drains should be undertaken when and where necessary.

• There are several biological remedies that are available, either homemade or bought from input dealers.
• Regular application of Trichoderma spp., Pochonia chlamydosporia, Pseudomonas fluorescens and other antagonistic microorganisms may be done.
• Neem and other botanical sprays can be made on-farm if the materials are available or bought.
• Commercial products of neem are also available. These are standardised and achieve more reliable results than home-made versions.
• Prevention of disease with probiotics, including:
  • Trichoderma antagonist fungus;
  • Streptomyces bacterium;
  • Prevention of larva with herbal products except the active ingredient Saponin;
  • Alkanoid used to control root Mealybugs;
  • Aphid control with metarhizium parasitic fungicide products
• The above biological products can be combined with fertilizer application, sprinkling the inoculum in the pepper root zone, and then covering with soil ensuring sufficient moisture.
• Phytosanitary measures should be undertaken. These include physical removal of pests, affected plant parts, infected plants (virus-infected plants, severely disease- infected or pest-infested plants, including plants affected by Phytophthora sp. or slow decline/yellow wilt).
• Implements used to remove the affected plants or plant parts should be cleaned or sterilised before use on other plants.

• Chemical agents should only be used as a last measure, and only used when other measures have failed.
• When using chemical agents, pesticides, you must prioritize the use of agents that are less toxic to the environment, pesticides that are less likely to stay in agricultural products and those which will quickly decompose

• Right pesticides: Choose the appropriate product for the pest and for use on pepper making sure it is the correct agent for the target pest or disease. Check that it is the correct product by checking the package label. Use only containers with the original, intact, packaging label.
• The correct dosage and concentration: do not mix wasteful and toxic high concentrations, do not dilute too much as this will not kill pests and you will need to spray again. Mix the pesticides according to the instructions on the package of the pesticide.
• At the right time: Spray at the right time when the worms are young and easy to destroy. Spraying when newly infected will be easier to treat than when it is too severe.
• The right way: Handle pesticides at the location where pests and diseases appear and cause harm. When using pesticides, it is necessary to ensure the isolation time as recommended on the package to minimize pesticide residues on pepper.

Treatment of pesticides directly into soil can prolong the withdrawal period, longer than written on the packaging. Therefore, if chemical pesticides are required to be applied to the soil to prevent pests and diseases, they should be handled at the beginning of the crop.

Changing pesticides will prevent the phenomenon of pesticide resistance of the pest.

Sprayers must have been tested, to ensure that they do not leak.

• Make sure no pesticide comes into contact with your body;
• When spraying do not eat, smoke; do not let the pesticide to come into contact with your body, especially the eyes;
• Identify areas that have been sprayed and restrict access during the isolation period;
• Do not spray against the wind, do not spray when the wind is too strong, it is about to rain or if it is too sunny.
• Apply pesticide at the right speed, in accordance with the amount of agent used;
• Ensure you have added the correct amount of water and pesticide for the desired concentration;
• Spray thoroughly without any gaps;
• Spraying should be done in the early morning or evening; and
• Do not spray when the black pepper is prepared to harvest as this will not guarantee the isolation period.

• After spraying clothes and tools, must be washed and stored in a separate storage area (along with the family's pesticide storage).
• Do not pour excess pesticide, or spray rinse water into the domestic water supply or drains.
• Absolutely do not use bottles, packaging of used pesticides for any other purpose. They must be destroyed and buried far from domestic water sources and residential areas.

• Black pepper - seeds are firm, the fruit turns yellow, and on each cluster there are 1-2 ripe yellow and red fruits
• White pepper - the cluster of fruits must be old, with scattered red ripe fruits
• Red pepper - fruit bunches are completely red. Ripe pepper fruits are kept intact when processing

• The whole bunch of pepper should be picked. The best time to harvest is when the pepper bunch is old and has ripe fruit, or the fruit has turned green to yellow.
• Do not collect green and young bunches except for the last harvest.
• Press each bunch of fruit separately by hand, without tearing the fruit bunch, causing wounds in the nodes.
• Pepper takes 6-8 months from flowering to harvest, depending upon the variety and on climatic conditions.

Press each bunch of fruit separately by hand, do not pull the bunch of fruits, causing wounds in the nodes.

• Prepare equipment for harvesting - tarpaulin, bags, ladders, chairs, and machines chairs, and thresher.
• Inspect and clean the field in the area to be harvested.
• You should especially take care to remove any dead pepper shoots from the ground that have become rotten and mouldy.
• Spread a tarpaulin in the rows and around the pepper base to avoid berries dropping on the soil and becoming contaminated.

If picking is done only once or twice during the season, there will be greater likelihood of picking immature as well as over-ripe berries.

• Berries that have fallen to the ground must be collected separately and not be mixed with pepper berries from the vines. The dropped berries should be processed separately for appropriate end uses.
• Harvested green pepper must be handled hygienically, collected, and transported in clean bags or baskets to where it is to be processed.
• Baskets or bags that have been used to hold agricultural chemicals must not be used for green pepper. Any container that is used should be cleaned thoroughly to ensure that it is free from any contaminants
• After picking pepper fruit, leaves and impurities must be picked up, packed into bags, and transported to the yard
• After picking pepper, the leaves and impurities are picked up, packed in bags, and transported to the drying yard. The berries are separated from the spikes manually on a clean cement floor or by using a manually operated or motorized thresher and the stalks are separated out from the berries.
• After harvesting, you should:
  • Wash plants with fungicides or copper-based drugs to kill pathogens and harmful fungi on leaves such as anthracnose lichen, and let the old leaves fall off.
  • Clean the shoot, cut off the eel pepper and the hands that are close to the ground.
  • Gather the old and diseased leaves and burn them.

If you do soak the pepper, this can be done in wire mesh or rattan baskets immersed in boiling water. The water should be changed when it becomes dirty.

• Sun drying of the pepper should be completed within 3-4 days.
• Drying is complete when the pepper turns from green or yellow to black and reaches a moisture content of 11-12%.
• The drying time and process depends on the quantity of pepper.
• Pepper should be spread to a thickness of about 2 to 3 cm and mixed 4 to 5 times a day to dry evenly.
• You must make sure there is adequate air flow. If not your product will become mouldy and have a musty smell.

• Solar dryers may be used to speed up the drying process and protect from dust and other contaminants without significantly increasing costs.

• Dryers using wood chips, coconut waste and other on-farm waste materials may be used to hasten the drying process and prevent contamination.
• Care must be taken to ensure that the temperatures do not exceed 60oC and that there is no smoke contamination.
• Where solid fuel or other dryers are used, care must be taken to ensure that temperature is kept below 60oC, to prevent loss of volatile substances, browning or discolouration.

• Drying should be done in clean surroundings, free from any possible contact with dust, dirt, farm animals and/or other possible sources of contamination.
• The drying area, cement yard, should be cleaned and covered with tarpaulin.
• The drying yard should not be damp and there should not be any pools of stagnant water.
• The tarpaulin must be clean and free from any possible contaminants.
• The drying area should be fenced or otherwise protected from any pests or farm animals.
• Pepper should be placed on clean drying platforms raised above the ground.
• The layer of pepper should be 2-3 cm thick and stirred 4-5 times per day.
• Care must be taken to ensure that pepper is adequately dried and to prevent spoilage from mould or other contaminants, particularly when there is no sun.
• During the drying time, do not let animals or people wear shoes to go on the peppercorn.

• Pepper should be packed in 2 layers, each bag about 50-70 kg with an inner nylon layer and outer fiber bag to prevent moisture absorption.
• Pepper stacks should be not more than 6-8 bags high and the bags should be at least 10-20 cm away from the wall or floor of the store.
• Bags should be thoroughly cleaned, if necessary, and carefully inspected to ensure that they are free of dirt or foreign matter.
• If possible, new bags may be used to avoid possible contamination.

• Heat treatment: Treat with water at 100 ̊C for 10 minutes, the ratio of digestion should be water = 1:1,15.
• 1st shelling: use a horizontal milling machine to rub for 10 minutes with the ratio of ingredients: water = 1:6
• Enzyme treatment: Use Peelzym 0.6% water temperature 50 ̊C, time 48h, ratio of ingredients: water = 1:1, adjust pH = 4.5

Black pepper

• The process is: Soak the pepper in water for the first time with enzyme treatment, peel, wash for a second time, peel, final wash and dried for the second time (80 ̊C, 4 hours).
• Soak in water: The ration of water should be 1:3, soak for 15 hours, rinse with water ratio 1:4.
• First enzyme treatment: Soak in water at 70 ̊C for 30 minutes, when the temperature drops to 50 ̊C, use Peelzym 1%. Soaking for 48h, ratio of ingredients: water = 1:1.5, adjust pH = 4.5 with acid acetic.
• Peel off the shells and wash: use the sieving machine for 10 minutes, wash the shells.
• Second enzyme treatment: Adjust pH to 4.5, water ratio 1: 1, enzyme 1.2%, temperature 40-45 ̊C, time 36h.
• Peel, wash the second time: Use the scrubber for 5 minutes, rinse

• Drying tarpaulin, threshing machine, containers must be free of any impurities. Remove all kinds of impurities in the field after harvesting and continue to remove impurities at all processing stages.
• Pay attention to the inspection and adjustment of machinery to avoid breaking the seeds, mix and completely remove impurities, dry on a rig, clean canvas
• When cleaning black or white pepper, care must be taken to ensure that all utensils and equipment used are clean and free from any possible source of contamination.
• Dried black or white pepper should be winnowed, sifted, and cleaned to remove pieces of skin, stalks or other foreign matter

• Do not use chemicals to limit mold, termites, and termites during storage.
• Clear away unsecured packaging and construction tools.
• Pepper bags should be stored in cool, airy, and dry warehouses.